JAZZ.
The rise of the flapper
Women's involvement in Jazz led to new fashion trends.
During the 1920s, personal fulfillment and independence were priorities for women. Women, more than ever, went to parties, wore makeup, voted, smoked alcohol and went to dances. [18] They no longer wore corsets to accentuate their figure, but some women with larger breast even bound their breast against their body to flatten their chest and make themselves appear younger, taller, and more innocent. [19] In 1927, Sears began to sell corsets called the “Abdo-belt” for $1.98 that were meant to flatten breast. [20] This is just one example of clothing that was meant to enhance a woman's youthfulness. This looser, youthful trend made dancing much easier and led to the development of the “new women” known as the flapper. [21]
The flapper look was able to develop because of their new found independence following the passing of the 19th amendment. Women wanted to showcase their free-will which was a large reason for why the flapper look became so popular. It was also popular because of its availability to all women in society. While only rich could afford the very “out there” and wild look of the flappers, the flapper clothings' easy reproduction made it possible for women of lower classes to buy cheaper versions of these high quality trends. [22] Thus, it appealed to everyone in society.
What defines a flapper?
"A flappers appeal to parents"
by Ellen Wells PAge
“If one judge by appearances, I suppose I am a flapper. I am within the age limit. I wear bobbed hair, the badge of flapperhood. (And, oh, what a comfort it is!), I powder my nose. I wear fringed skirts and bright-colored sweaters, and scarfs, and waists with Peter Pan collars, and low-heeled “finale hopper” shoes. I adore to dance. I spend a large amount of time in automobiles. I attend hops, and proms, and ball-games, and crew races, and other affairs at men’s colleges.” [23]
December 6, 1922
"Eulogy of the Flapper"
by Zelda Fitzgerald
“The Flapper awoke from her lethargy of sub-deb-ism, bobbed her hair, put on her choicest pair of earrings and a great deal of audacity and rouge and went into the battle. She flirted because it was fun to flirt and wore a one-piece bathing suit because she had a good figure, she covered her face with powder and paint because she didn’t need it and she refused to be bored chiefly because she wasn’t boring. She was conscious that the things she did were the things she had always wanted to do." [24]
July 1922
" Flapper Jane"
by Bruce Bliven
“Women have highly resolved that they are just as good as men, and intend to be treated so. They don't mean to have any more unwanted children. They don't intend to be debarred from any profession or occupation which they choose to enter. They clearly mean (even though not all of them yet realize it) that in the great game of sexual selection they shall no longer be forced to play the role, simulated or real, of helpless quarry. If they want to wear their heads shaven, as a symbol of defiance against the former fate which for three millennia forced them to dress their heavy locks according to male decrees, they will have their way.“ [25]
1925
"Eulogy of the Flapper"
by Reverend Almer Pennewell
"Bobbed hair, short skirts and knickerbockers are not signs of sin, but a declaration of independence." [26]
1922
In all of these primary source, each woman's idea of "the flapper" was largly defined by a flapper's increased sense of independence. Additionally, a large part of the flapper lifestyle was defined by the clothing they wore. They all mentioned some fashion trends partially defining who they were. This mirrors what American women felt during the 1920s. A large part of what flappers wore and what trends arose reflected their increased sense of independence and free-will.
not everyone was in favor of the
flappers…
Many of the older generation as well as many feminist criticized the rise of flappers for various reasons. These primary sources summarize some of the criticism against flappers.
“Flappers lowest in Radcliffe Tests”
By Dr. Abraham Roback
“‘They are undependable” “They chafe under discipline and enforced tasks” “They lack patience and fail to get the desired point of view” “They can appreciate only that phase of the question which directly affects them” “They dislike to bother with burdensome mental problems…” The flappers dislike to work, are very impatient and fail to apply knowledge which they acquire in school. But they have one characteristic which teachers must have to procure results. In the classroom they are sympathetic. That is their one recommendation.” [27]
december 28, 1923
Dr. Roback of Harvard criticized the flappers because he believed flappers were inherently lazy and selfish. He also believed flappers failed to apply any knowledge they learned in school.
The Brooklyn Parent's League wrote these blue laws because they believed the flapper lifestyle was a bad influence for young people. These blue laws included restrictions on the clothing worn by girls.
"the new women"
by Sheila Kaye-Smith
“Women now has very nearly the same political and educational advantages as man, but you cannot be much impressed by the use she has made of them. Politics have surely never been more treacherous or commercial than they are in these Utopian days, when woman has the vote, and education seems to have persuaded some women to think that their highest aim in life is to produce a feeble imitation of their brothers. Marriage is going out of fashion as a vocation, and a great deal of nonsense is talked about men and women working together side by side and being independent of each other. I have even heard it said in praise of the modern woman that she does not look upon marriage as her aim in life, but looks forward to entering a profession and earning her living independently of male support.” [28]
NOvember 5, 1921
"Brooklyn parents' blue laws for flappers"
by parents' league of brooklyn
“Members of the Parent’s League of Brooklyn have decided to take a hand in the social life of school boys and girls between the ages of 15 and 18 year by promulgating certain edicts calculated to counteract the flapper invasion into the life of young girls…
Here are the rules for flappers:
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Hours for evening parties are limited from 8:30 to 12. It’s curfew after midnight
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Parties are to be held only on Friday and Saturday nights.
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Simple, refined clothes are to be worn at all times.
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Chaperones must be present at all parties
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Chaperones will accompany the girls home.
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Censorship over the plays and movies to be attended.
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Improper dancing forbidden.” [29]
